Tonal trends

As 2020 comes to a close and we look ahead to a new year, we asked some hair industry experts what colours have been trending, and what looks set to be popular in 2021

“Softer, more muted tones seem to be trending as we approach the end of 2020. We’ve been enhancing our darker, brunette clients’ natural bases, by creating a little softness and dimension with buttery caramel and coffee tones. Regarding our blonde clients, trends seem to be moving towards more toned down blondes, using honey and beige for the fairer skin tones, and slightly cooler mixed tones for the warmer skin tones.

“For the more daring dark to brunette clients, deep blues, cherry reds and purples are definitely on trend. Pastelised pinks and corals are a go-to colour among blonde clients, for a muted effect.

“Balayage is a trend that will continue into 2021. In the past few years, this technique has been popular using different variations, such as ombre and foilyage. I think we will return to the more traditional technique of colour placement with balayage, using freehand placement of colour in a softer combination of tones to create a subtle blend.

“We will continue to see soft and muted tones, rather than brave and bold ones in 2021. Low maintenance hair colour, with plenty of dimension using a lot of cinnamon and sandy browns, will be the focus for the early part of the year. Money pieces will be a top trend; lighter strands that highlight and contour the face, which can be applied on all foundations.

“When salons were closed during lockdown, social media took over and stylists took to educating their clients on home haircare and maintenance. Online retail came to the fore, and it’s still winning as clients now want to stock up on all the best for their hair. Healthy, more natural hair has become the focus of every client's visit to the salon since lockdown.”

Margo Kilkenny, Halo Hair Design, Ballymahon, Co Longford, technical educator with A.S.P Affinage Salon Professional

‘There’s lots in store for 2021, from brand innovations to new consultation methods, to a reawakening of colour and cutting for clients determined to try something new’

“Grey ice toners are still popular, but a lot of clients are moving towards warm and creamy blonde tones. Since the season changed to autumn, and now going into winter, clients are arming up their base colours with chestnut and copper tones.

“With many clients working from home now, we have noticed that they are trying out some more adventurous tones over highlights; peaches, violet and pinks over their blondes. They are definitely being more daring. Since lockdown, I think many clients have learned how to manage more length in their hairstyles, and they’re open to experimenting with that length.

“Balayage is still a big favourite, but we are seeing clients opting for a more natural look, and less of a contrast between base colour and highlighted colour. They are also choosing to use their natural base more, with baby lights added throughout the hair to break it up, and stronger, more defined highlights at the front.

“I think a lot of clients are trying to keep their base colour as close to their natural base now, because during lockdown they got used to seeing it a lot more. But they’re opting to add tones of warmth over highlights and balayage. I have had some clients stripping out their cosmetic colour, and embracing their natural grey hair after four months of looking at their regrowth. For 2021, I see the highlighting trend increasing, and I expect more highlighting techniques to take over from the balayage trend.”

Ronan Markey, Sebastian Marks Hair Design, Dublin

‘Balayage is still a big favourite, but we are seeing clients opting for a more natural look, and less of a contrast between base colour and highlighted colour’

“For 2021, we forecast a huge push towards colours associated with fruit, nature and wellness. Clients know they are in the hands of experts when they come to the salon, and we expect them to be more daring, with dimensional flashes, and double tone colouring.

“Since we reopened after lockdown, clients have been more outgoing with their colour choice, allowing their professional hairstylist to take control, and trusting their recommendations. We didn’t see many clients choosing to embrace their natural greys. In fact, we have seen the opposite; almost all of our clients have expressed relief at getting their greys covered, and they feel refreshed with their new colour.

“There’s lots in store for 2021, from brand innovations to new consultation methods, to a reawakening of colour and cutting for clients determined to try something new. I think the industry is in a really good place at the moment, with clients really understanding the role we play in their wellbeing and lives. Our team at House of Colour worked very hard during lockdown, upskilling on our in-house online education platform, and they came back to work on top of their game.”

David Campbell, director, House of Colour, Dublin

“Blonde is always trending, but now it’s a warm blonde, rather than an ash grey shade. Rich browns are also popular, with subtle hints of even warmer tones.

“Balayage will always be there. I used to think of it as a one-look pony, but now I combine it with several different techniques. Most heads we do at the salon are a mix of traditional balayage, with personalised highlights. It’s all about placement; where you put it and why. I think highlights are slowly coming back, but with a more personalised touch. In general, colour has never been so personalised; it’s unique to each individual. Pastels might make a comeback too, as people are becoming more free-spirited and trusting.

“Since lockdown, I’ve noticed more clients wanting their natural colour enhanced. They also want colour that is easily maintained. They are more open to suggestions, and trust their stylist, especially when they see us constantly learning and educating ourselves. It’s great when clients are open and willing, but it’s even better that they trust us, without hesitation.

“Another trend I’ve noticed emerging is that clients are now investing in having and maintaining healthy hair, which, in turn, gives us better colour results. They are also more likely to wait for the stylist they want, if it means it’s going to be done right, and their hair stays healthy. Among the many things 2020 has taught us, is that it’s clear that a trip to the salon can have a very positive impact on a client’s mental health, and that’s pretty special.”

Sarah Lyons, Sarah Lyons Hair and Beauty Bar, Summerhill, Co Meath