Leading light

There are a number of things to consider if you are thinking of investing in a light-based device to expand your salon’s treatment menu, explains aesthetics consultant Mairéad Cheevers

Within the aesthetics industry, there has long been a tendency to compare and contrast laser and IPL devices. The truth is that both are excellent pieces of technology. In an ideal world, and if money was not an issue, all salons/clinics would benefit from having at least one laser and one IPL device within their practice, in order to cover most aspects of a range of treatments. If you are thinking of investing in either of them, the first thing you should do is ensure you understand how each of them works.

LASER EXPLAINED 

Laser stands for ‘light amplification by stimulated emission of radiation’. It is also known as photothermolysis; photo meaning light, thermo meaning heat and lysis meaning destroy. Lasers that are used in aesthetics can be ablative, non-ablative or fractional in their functionality. Different lasers can be used for a wide variety of aesthetic treatments, including hair removal, vascular lesions, pigmented lesions, tattoo removal, and non-ablative skin resurfacing and skin rejuvenation. They are designed to target a particular chromophore within the tissue, such as water (skin rejuvenation), melanin (pigmented lesions) and haemoglobin (vascular lesions).

The wavelength of the laser will dictate which chromophore it can target, with many lasers targeting more than one. The chromophore that the laser is targeting can also differ in its strength at different points.

The laser generates light in the form of a high-intensity beam. This beam of light is monochromatic, coherent and collimated. No matter what distance the beam is at, it does not change size or shape. With a range of wavelengths used for different lasers, the most common lasers used in the aesthetic industry are:

• Alexandrite 755nm for hair removal on Fitzpatrick skin types 1-3

• Diode laser 810nm for hair removal

• Nd:yag 1064 for vascular lesions and hair removal on Fitzpatrick skin type 5 and 6

• 1565 erbium laser for non-ablative skin resurfacing

• Q-switch and pico for tattoo removal

ABOUT IPL 

IPL stands for ‘intense pulsed light’ and is a broad-spectrum white light with wavelength ability of 415nm-1200nm. While laser focuses just one wavelength of light at the skin, IPL releases light of many different wavelengths, like a photo flash. The light from IPL is more scattered and less focused than a laser. IPL penetrates down to the second layer of the skin (dermis), without harming the top layer (epidermis).

Pigment cells in the skin absorb the light energy, which is converted into heat. The heat destroys the unwanted pigment to clear up freckles and other spots, or it destroys the hair follicle to prevent the hair from growing again. IPL can be performed anywhere on the body, but it may not work as well on uneven areas. It isn’t recommended for people who tend to get thick, raised keloid scars, or who have darker skin tones. It’s also not as effective on light-colored hair as it is on darker hair.

‘NOT ALL LASERS OR IPL SYSTEMS ARE THE SAME, AND THE BEST TECHNOLOGY IS NOT ALWAYS THE BEST INVESTMENT FOR YOUR CLINIC OR SALON’

The main treatments IPL is used for are:

• Hair removal

• Broken capillaries

• Redness

• Pigmentation

• Mottled skin

• Acne

• Skin rejuvenation

CHOOSING A DEVICE 

Salon owners and therapists sometimes believe that IPL does not work as well as laser for hair removal.

However, one reason for choosing a laser over an IPL for a hair removal clinic is the number of shots that you get from each device. Typically, a laser gives a higher number of shots. You can get between 400,000 and one million shots from a laser lamp before you need to replace it, compared to 25,000–100,000 from an IPL device.

Not all lasers or IPL systems are the same, and the best technology is not always the best investment for your clinic or salon. Different brands have varied adjustability and unique features on every machine. Some of the most established brands that supply laser and IPL devices are Lumenis, Cynosure, Viora, Candella, Cutera and DEKA.

Before making any decision about which device to invest in, it is important to first do your research on all the devices available on the market, and to take some questions into consideration:

• Which treatments are your clients looking for most?

• How much manufacturer training do you get with the device?

• Is there ongoing support from a sales representative or the trainer, and, if so, how often do they visit?

• Do they have engineers who are based in Ireland, and are easily accessible if something happens to the device?

‘As a therapist, it is always advisable to have a full understanding of exactly what you are doing to the tissues of the skin when you are releasing pulses/shots’

FIRST STEP 

If you are looking to expand your skin treatments with a light-based device, the best first step is acquiring an IPL device. In time, you could then advance on to a non-ablative resurfacing laser, if the clientele required further treatment. You would still be able to do hair removal treatments with your IPL; and if you felt this was in high demand, you could then invest in an alexandrite or diode laser to help increase your profit margins.

EDUCATION 

To allow you to gain an understanding of both laser and IPL, you can complete a Core of Knowledge laser and light course. This will teach you the basic principles of laser and IPL systems; how to differentiate between laser wavelengths; the hazards associated with laser and IPL machines; and the importance of risk assessments. This training is essential for professional users of laser and light treatments in the beauty and aesthetics industry. It is a basic legal requirement for all laser technicians to achieve this certification in order to obtain insurance.  You can then do a Level 4 laser and light hair removal and skin rejuvenation course. There are several colleges all over Ireland that provide these courses.

Many laser and IPL therapists in the industry do not have these qualifications, as they have only became available in recent years through iTEC /VTCT, and CIBTAC. However, as a therapist, it is always advisable to have a full understanding of exactly what you are doing to the tissues of the skin when you are releasing pulses/shots. This knowledge also allows you to understand your manufacturer training at a deeper level, and be able to perform your treatments to to ensure the best outcome for every client. PBHJ

Mairéad Cheevers owns Beauty to Aesthetics Training & Consultancy. For more information visit beautytoaestheticstraining.com.