Set the tone

As the seasons change, some of Ireland’s leading hair stylists give us the lowdown on the colour trends and techniques that will meet clients’ needs, and keep them coming back

Autumn is synonymous with change, marking the transition from summer to winter. And while hair shades typically get darker at this time of year, 2021 looks set to feature more vibrant splashes of colour than previous years.

“After numerous lockdowns, when clients embraced natural textures and colours, autumn/winter 2021 is set to be the time for them to embrace their new-found freedom,” says David Murray, owner of David Murray@21 in Drogheda, Co Louth, and Joico European Design Team member. “Clients will opt for bolder, chunkier flashes of colour, but placed in a more sophisticated way, and paying tribute to the colour craze of the 1990s.

Think bright and bold shades, such as fuchsia pink, ruby red and ocean blue.

And for clients who are looking for a more subtle transformation, it will be all about the blondes for this season – super bright blondes with a warmer undertone, giving a two-dimensional look.”

“This autumn/winter will see a return to revitalising terracotta hues that lift and embrace all skin tones,” says Stephen O’Driscoll, artistic director, Hugh Campbell Hair Group in Limerick. “Crimson, amber, magenta and blush blonde also look set to be the tones of the season, along with all the beautiful salon-friendly cooler tones such as ash brown, greige, smoky and pearlescent blonde tones, which really capture the zeitgeist of 2021.”

“I think we will see both sides of the colour spectrum, from cool to warm,” says Sarah Mason, owner, Sarah Mason Professional in Galway. “Beautiful reds are always very appealing in the autumn; it’s all about being playful with tones to bring skin tone and eye colour to life. Looking at Pantone’s forecast for autumn/winter, I would expect to see a lot more global colour, with deep cool brunettes and some hot reds on the lighter side.”

“Intense, vibrant shades aren’t going anywhere; I believe clients will want to keep their hair bright, creative and fun,” says Debbie O’Keeffe Crinnion, owner of Montana Blu Hairdressing & Academy in Fermoy, Co Cork, and lead educator for Osmo in Ireland. “Many have been requesting honey blondes again as they embrace their natural warm tones.”

“We'll be seeing muted coppers, cool toffee tones and cinnamon brunettes – and ‘bronde’ is back,” says Ashleigh Farrelly, owner of Hair By Ashleigh in Artane in Dublin. “I also think creamy Scandinavian blondes are here to stay, and we'll still be seeing Californian blondes, but with a more lived-in look. The ‘life's too short’ mood will continue; people missed out so much in the first half of the year that they're now ready to leave decisions in the trusted hands of their stylists. With that in mind, vivid shades and pastels are going to trend into winter, as well as more muted kisses of salmon and pinkish coppers on warm bases.”

Techniques and tips

According to O’Driscoll, balayage continues to be among the most popular techniques in the salon. “Its versatility and adaptability means it's a go-to option with a myriad of different results. Whether the hair is incubated in foil for extra lift, or personalised with a fashion toning technique, it creates a buzz with clients and generates new business. At the moment we are seeing a lot of highcontrast chunkier looks being requested.”

‘Beautiful reds are always very appealing in the autumn; it’s all about being playful with tones to bring skin tone and eye colour to life’

“Balayage is far more bespoke now, and features soft babylights and framing, before playing with a few toners,” says Mason. “Our clients are opting for a little less colour, but still focusing on lightness around the face.”

“A big trend in balayage is towards a more toned down look, so creamy mushroom tones are popular,” says Shaun Moriarty, co-owner, The Greene Room, which has salons in Co Clare and Co Tipperary. “Similarly, clients are still requesting the money piece, but they are opting for a more toned down version now. They want a softer result.”

“Money pieces in both light and dark to frame the face are here to stay, as well as little pops of colour paired with babylights and strand lights,” says Farrelly.

“Techniques are really determined by visual outcomes, expectations, costs and, sometimes, timing,” says O’Keeffe. “Mixed techniques are big now; I still have traditional highlights clients, but I use a mix of babylights, tease lights, balayage and face framing in the majority of clients. If I’m working on darker bases that are going lighter, I look at the hairline to see how the colour will grow out – if I don’t want a hard grow-out line, I baby weave behind the hairline. But I don’t weave that really short hairline at the front, as it usually ends up looking like breakage. I root tap a shade lighter to create a more visually blended result. I love Osmo Ikon Medium Graphite for my root tap – it’s my chameleon colour.”

“Root tapping is a must-have technique,” says Farrelly. “Tap with a demi perm – this will help with a more subtle grow-out, and help clients extend the longevity of their colour.”

Grey blending with balayage is also more popular than ever, according to O’Driscoll. “L’Oréal Professionnel DIA Light is indispensable in my workflow as it targets only coloured hair and normalises its pH with acidic technology, leaving the hair luscious and luminous. It’s perfect for grey blending.”

“Grey blending techniques are a must to manage clients through the process of embracing their natural grey,” says Mason. “I am a real fan of Wella Koleston Perfect – playing with the levels of peroxide to create layered reflections in the hair when using the same shade can really bring an interesting finish to the hair.”

“Clients are still embracing their grey hair, but opting to have the colour enhanced,” says Moriarty. “Violet toners are beautiful on grey –I use Alfaparf Milano Color Wear’s Lightest Violet Blonde shade.”

“It's all about the return of silvers and grey tones on the lavender side, rather than blues,” says Farrelly. “Natural greys are the bomb at the moment also. More and more clients got used to living with their natural colour during lockdown, and have since chosen to bleach out the ends and then tone to match the natural salt and pepper.

“Techniques are adapting and changing all the time. For example, the new Schwarzkopf Professional SalonLab Smart Analyzer, combined with a bespoke Fibre Clinix prescription, maximises the absolute potential of any colour. And there is always education available from both brands and individuals to help hone your skills and explore new ones.

My advice to any hair stylist is to invest in education as it really can make all the difference.”

Client care

Moriarty believes that clients are very invested in their hair colour in 2021. “They are more demanding also, and are challenging us as stylists, which is great and means that the consultation is more important than ever. Be honest and clear with clients when it comes to their hair colour expectations; explain to them what will work and won’t work, and what the reasons are for that. When we reopened after the lockdown earlier this year, we gave more time to colour clients to do that and it’s really paid off.”

“Post-lockdown, I think we all want to take control of our lives again,” says O’Driscoll. “We see this in clients’ choices; some want bigger changes, and others are opting for more low-maintenance looks.”

‘Be honest and clear with clients when it comes to their hair colour expectations; explain to them what will work and won’t work, and what the reasons are for that’

Mason agrees. “Some clients are ready for a full-on change, to move to a more exciting colour zone. However, I am really building a strong grey blending client base, so it’s very important to me that this journey is kept exciting for them too.”

“These days, clients want colour that grows out more naturally and looks lived-in,” says Farrelly. “We now need to create looks that resemble what clients see on Instagram, but which also grow out naturally. In my opinion, less is more and it's all about educating your clients.”