Shaping the future

When it comes to global brow trends, ombré brows and brow lamination are among the most popular in 2021. We talk to some brow artists about the benefits of having these services on your treatment menu

Brow treatments are always high on the list of most requested salon services, with new techniques, innovations and trends helping to meet and increase client demand. Earlier this year, Pinterest reported a 50% year-on-year rise in searches for ombré brows, also known as powder brows, which is a relatively new semi-permanent treatment that is similar to microblading. But while microblading creates short hair-like strokes, ombré brows is a technique where a series of many fine dots that vary in concentration create a soft, powdered look.

It has seen an increase in popularity in the past 12 months as it appeals to both professionals and clients, according to Sinead Corcorcan, permanent make-up trainer and educator, and owner of Beauty Ink salon in Clonmel, Co Tipperary. “The ombré brows technique is safe for the skin – there is no cutting or breaking it like with microblading – and it can be gently touched up every 12 to 24 months with the right selection of pigments. The client receives a more defined look, an ombré effect of higher distinction and symmetry, with zero trauma to their skin.”

“Before an ombré brows treatment is done, the client’s face is mapped so that the brows are correctly shaped to it,” explains Leah Chung, owner of Leah Chung Lash Artistry in Wexford town.

“Our brows are sisters, not twins, so the mapping ensures they are in line with the client’s natural brow structure. Once this is done, we choose the right colour for the client. This is very important because if the pigment isn’t the right tone, then the brows may be too dark or too light when they heal.”

‘Our brows are sisters, not twins, so the mapping ensures they are in line with the client’s natural brow structure’

“A permanent make-up machine is used to softly and safely implant colour; we layer and layer for the correct look and for a longer lasting treatment,” says Corcoran. “Layering the pigment builds definition, and we see our clients return with good colour retention that can easily be touched up lightly to last them another 12-24 months. Overworked skin or too much layering can have the opposite effect, so a light approach is important with this technique. As an artist, you need to know more than just how to use one needle configuration; you simply can't use the same method on a mature client with thin sensitive skin as a younger client with oily skin, or a client with tougher, sallow skin.”

“The overall result is very natural,” says Chung. “It’s like a powdered make-up effect, rather than the line strokes that microblading gives. Every client is different, so the technique you use will depend on their preference and the look they want to achieve. Both ombré brows and microblading are amazing methods that give gorgeous results. But ombré is an ideal option for clients whose skin isn’t suitable for microblading.”

If you are thinking of adding ombré brows to your treatment menu, make sure to use high-calibre products and machines, advises Chung. “Cheaper ones will risk quality in the brow colour. Make sure also that you practise hard because this will make your life easier when you are doing clients. You must have passion and be willing to be dedicated to the art. If you don’t have a passion for creating, then doing the brows will feel like a chore. Your clients are putting their trust in you, so it is important that you give them the best possible experience with their semipermanent journey.”

Lamination nation

Another trend that’s been building a steady Irish fan base is brow lamination, which is a process that essentially involves straightening eyebrow hairs using a chemical solution, so that they all stand in the desired direction.

Originating in Russia, the technique began to gain traction in Ireland and the UK before the pandemic, and its popularity continues to rise.

“Brow lamination differs to more traditional brow treatments in that it focuses not only on tinting the brow hairs, but also on restructuring them to create more volume and improve symmetry,” explains Aleksandra Pawlak, owner of Butterfly Effect, a permanent make-up and beauty salon in Rathfarnham in Dublin. “It will tame the client’s brows so that all they have to do in the morning is simply comb them to their desired shape. It’s perfect for anyone looking for fuller, fluffier brows.”

‘Brows have become so important to clients; they are willing to pay for a good service and invest in aftercare to keep them looking great’

“Brow lamination was one of our fastest growing treatments in the salon in 2020,” says Paula Molloy, owner of Blink in Bray, Co Wicklow. “This year we saw an even bigger demand for it as clients had let their brows grow during lockdown, and were looking for a brow makeover with instant and long-lasting results.”

While brow lamination is ideal for clients looking for a fuller brow, it’s also an option for those who prefer a sleek, more defined look. “The procedure tames unruly stubborn brows that grow in different directions, giving overall uniformity,” says Molloy. “And it helps to cover any sparse areas or gaps the client may have in their brows. It can make thinner brows appear thicker, which is great for any client who has damaged brows from years of overplucking.”

“Remember too that the brow artist can only work with what the client has,” says Pawlak. “So if there is little to no hair, the client may not be suitable for brow lamination.”

The technique is suitable for all age groups, according to Molloy. “At first I thought it was only for younger clients with good and untouched brows, especially as it was very much marketed as a fashion trend. But over the past year, I’ve seen a wider variety of clients opt for this treatment to help achieve the perfect brow. They’ve realised that they can style the brow to their desired shape after lamination; it doesn't have to be over-exaggerated or pushed up all the time.

“So brow lamination can create a fashionable, on-trend look, but equally it’s an instant solution for a client with issues such as thin or gappy brows – they too can achieve their dream look.”

“Brow lamination is definitely a bold look,” says Pawlak. “But because it makes the client’s brow hairs more prominent, it adds more texture to the brow, which in turn can result in a natural look as well.”

Molloy says that any salon that is considering adding brow lamination to its menu should find a reputable brand to work with, which will benefit both the business and the client. “Brows have become so important to clients; they are willing to pay for a good service and invest in aftercare to keep them looking great. Make sure you use products that you are comfortable with – your clients will thank you and keep coming back.”

“Brow lamination is a great treatment for building client loyalty, as it lasts for six to eight weeks and clients tend to want to have it done again,” says Pawlak.

“It’s also good for retail opportunities as the aftercare is so important – because the brows are essentially being permed, clients must keep them hydrated with oils and serums in between treatments to ensure they do not dry out.”