Shed some light

Deciding which laser or IPL is right for your business can be confusing; we asked some experts to share advice on how to make an informed choice

Doing your research before investing in a laser or IPL (intense pulsed light) device is vital.

Ensuring you choose the right system for you will not only save you time and money, but can make or break your salon’s reputation. While laser and IPL machines are hugely versatile, they are mostly used in salons for hair removal and skin rejuvenation.

Lasers for hair removal

Although all wavelengths used for laser/ IPL hair removal are suitable for the removal of the hair itself, they are not all necessarily appropriate for all skin types I–VI on the Fitzpatrick scale. With a range of wavelengths used for different lasers, the most common ones used are alexandrite 755nm for Fitzpatrick skin types I to III, Nd:YAG 1064nm for Fitzpatrick skin types V and VI, and diode laser 810nm.

“The colour of the skin will determine which wavelength is used,”says Paula McIntyre, owner of Urbana, which has clinics in Dublin and Drogheda.“Pale/ medium skin tones are treated using an alexandrite laser. Darker skin tones are treated with an Nd:YAG laser. This safely targets the hair without causing any damage to the surrounding skin and tissue. It should be noted that dark skin types should never be treated using an alexandrite – this laser absorbs rapidly into melanin so will damage darker skin.”

“Diode laser 810nm is a popular choice due to its ability to treat a wide range of skin types,” says Kerry Belba, laser trainer and clinic director of Laser Skin Solutions in Bournemouth in the UK. “These were the first lasers to be used for ‘in-motion’ or ‘pain-free’ modes, with energy being delivered gradually to the skin to achieve maximum comfort. However, not all diodes have ‘pain-free’ modes.

“Nd:YAG 1064nm is considered the safest of all lasers for treating dark skins due to its long wavelength. But because of the depth of penetration, it can make treatment more uncomfortable. Low melanin absorption means efficacy can be limited on fine or fair hairs.

“Intense light sources, commonly referred to as IPL devices, are popular due to their versatility and ability to treat a wide range of skin types. However, quality varies and treatment outcomes depend very much on peak power output, and how the energy is delivered in terms of pulses, pulse durations and delays.”

Lasers for skin rejuvenation

When selecting a laser for skin resurfacing, Dr Nick Lowe, consultant dermatologist at Cranley Clinic in London, explains there are several parameters to consider.

“Some lasers are what we call chromophore-specific. So, you can use the Alexandrite and related laser to target pigment, or you can choose lasers with non-specific absorption. These longer wavelength lasers, like the erbium yag and the CO2, are absorbed by water within the skin or the tissue, so they don't require a specific chromophore.”

Another factor is non-ablative versus ablative, with non-ablative usually used for mild to moderate skin issues, and ablative lasers used for more severe conditions.

“The decision is dependent on the depth of injury, the intensity of the energy, the density of the delivery and the laser tissue interaction,” says Dr Lowe.

The use of fractional lasers for skin rejuvenation is also popular. “Fractional laser technology falls somewhere between deep acting lasers and less invasive skin resurfacing treatments,” says Patricia Molloy, owner, The Derma Clinic in Blackrock, Co Dublin. “It works using a technologically advanced system of optics, which treat the skin in fractional parts. It targets damaged, ageing skin by creating microscopic wounds well beneath the skin’s outermost layer. This triggers the body’s own natural healing, and the production of new collagen and skin cells. Treatment helps to resurface the skin, while stimulating collagen in the underlying dermis, plumping out fine lines and wrinkles. Combining the impact and results of ablative lasers with the gentleness of non-ablative lasers, healing occurs quickly, with very little downtime for clients.”