Menopausal matters

Being knowledgeable about the impact menopause can have on the skin, and the treatment options available, will ensure you meet clients’ needs and give your salon a competitive edge

With menopause affecting 50% of the global population, there are 571,000 women in Ireland in the 45-65-year-old menopausal age cohort, according to figures from the last census. This period of a woman’s life triggers a number of symptoms, including a range of skincare challenges.

“The menopause occurs when a woman’s ovaries no longer produce eggs and, as a result, the levels of oestrogen, progesterone and testosterone hormones fall,” explains Victoria Evans, education manager,

Dermalogica. “She may experience a myriad of symptoms in the months and years before reaching menopause, a phase known as perimenopause, which typically starts around age 45, although this can be earlier. Women of menopausal age often notice dramatic changes in their skin. Oestrogen plays a critical role in many skin functions, including collagen production. Studies show that women’s skin loses about 30% of its collagen during the first five years of menopause. After that, they lose about 2% of their collagen ever year for the next 20 years. Along with accelerated skin ageing, it's common for skin to become very dry, itchy and sensitive.” professionalbeauty.ie

‘Menopausal skin can be very unpredictable and change frequently, so clients should keep their at-home regime simple, and focus on the core basics such as cleansing and hydration’

“Drops in oestrogen during menopause causes the skin to become thinner, resulting in blemishes and sun damage becoming more noticeab le, and age spots appearing,” explains Susan Fox, owner of Eden Skin Clinic in Wicklow. “Hormonal changes can also stimulate sebaceous glands, resulting in excessive sebum and breakouts in some women. And as the levels of female hormones reduce, some may experience hair growth in a male pattern on the upper lip and chin.”

“Menopause causes the skin’s natural cellular turnover process to begin to slow down, which then leads to dead cells accumulating on the surface, making the skin appear dull,” says Andrea O'Donnell, national educator, beauty division, Xpert Professional. “Natural skin hydration is reduced, resulting in dehydration lines.”

“Some women may start to experience inflammation in their skin,” says Laura Moloney, owner of Laurel The Salon in Clonmel, Co Tipperary. “This can often occur in a butterfly-like effect on the face – appearing on the nose and across both cheeks, and sometimes the chin. This can be induced due to changes in temperature regulation and surges of heat or hot flushes. For a percentage of women, this may worsen, giving their skin an uncomfortable feeling of tightness, heat, irritation, and aggressive flare-ups when exposed to heat or certain food and drink. Some may develop rosacea or acne rosacea; this condition must be diagnosed by a medical professional, but can be treated hand in hand with prescribed medication and cosmeceutical skincare treatments and products.”

Professional treatments

When it comes to professional treatments, Evans recommends those that encourage cell renewal and focus on skin firming. “Ideally the service should be tailored to the skin on the day of treatment, and levels of resurfacing moderated as necessary. Menopausal skin, at times, will respond well to chemical peels and minimally invasive treatments, but a good homecare regime will need to be in place to prime skin for advanced treatments. LED and microcurrent services are a great way to enhance cell regeneration, firm the skin and deliver active ingredients with minimal sensitivity.”

“As with any in-salon treatments, a full consultation must take place to fully assess the client’s skin and lifestyle before recommending a treatment plan,” says Moloney. “No one size fits all when it comes to skincare, especially if medication is being taken. When applied in peel form, lactic acid is a great ingredient to help brighten and refresh the skin. LED light treatments can also be added to facials and peels or as a stand-alone treatment to work on inflammation and pigmentation.”

“As menopause can affect each woman differently, I tailor a package for my clients,” says Fox. “Some of my favourite treatments are microneedling, as it stimulates collagen production and, over time, literally changes the structure of the skin, tightening and firming it; anti-ageing peels as they can help to re-densify thinning skin; and IPL skin rejuvenation, which is great for targeting sun damage and flushing.”

At-home care

“Menopausal skin can be very unpredictable and change frequently, so clients should keep their at-home regime simple, and focus on the core basics such as cleansing and hydration,” says Evans. “Increased sensitivity and dryness are common, so cleansers and moisturisers that address these issues should be used, along with a serum to fortify collagen production.

“Some women may find they can no longer tolerate their retinol and acid products, so they should opt for actives such as vitamin C and peptides, plus gentle exfoliators to support skin regeneration.”

“I advise my clients to treat their menopausal skin with a 360-degree approach,” says Fox. “I suggest adding specific supplements, especially collagen and vitamin A. Moisturisers with prebiotics and probiotics are also ideal, as they help to repair the microbiome and barrier function of the skin, and soothe irritation.”

“I tell clients to look out for ingredients that can nourish their skin,” says Moloney.

‘Menopausal women are great clients; they want your advice and guidance, and they usually have disposable income and want to spend it’

“These include hyaluronic acid for hydration; antioxidants such as vitamins C and B to ease inflammation and protect from free radicals; tyrosinase inhibitors to help suppress pigmentation and melanin accumulation in skin; and a good SPF, which is the main anti-ageing ingredient you can apply to the skin for protection, both from an aesthetic and health perspective. They should avoid harsh ingredients such as salicylic acid, which may dry the skin further.”

“Women in their early 40s should start using anti-ageing peptides in order to help stimulate collagen and elastin production, and to boost the skin’s elasticity, which is important as skin becomes thinner and starts to sag,” says O’Donnell.

“I’d also suggest they use a night-time cream with repairing and antiinflammatory ingredients to maintain a strong and healthy barrier. Home peeling masks are good to stimulate cell turnover and prevent dry skin.”

Lifestyle changes

According to Moloney, lifestyle changes are also hugely important during menopause. “If a client’s sleep patterns are being affected, advise them to cut back on caffeinated drinks, and instead introduce decaffeinated or herbal teas, such as camomile in the evenings to help induce sleep.”

“It's probably no surprise that the advice to help improve menopausal symptoms are based around general good health,” says Evans. “Regular exercise is important for bone density, while stress reduction and self-care practices help with the mental health impact of going through a big change.

It’s fantastic that the taboo on this subject is lifting, and more and more women are openly talking about it. Knowledge is always power.”

“It’s important to offer clients support, understanding and reassurance,” says Fox. “I encourage them to take some time out of their days for themselves. They often find that their time in the salon and the chat is as helpful to them as the treatment. They can feel out of control, so giving them a good skincare routine to follow, and a programme of treatments, makes them feel like they are back in the driving seat. Menopausal women are great clients; they want your advice and guidance, and they usually have disposable income and want to spend it.

As a beauty professional, helping women through this monumental time in their lives is very rewarding.”