Catwalk creations

Fresh from teaching a daylong course in Dublin’s Accademia, Alfaparf Milano’s new creative ambassador Luke Benson chatted to us about recreating runway looks in the salon

What key trends did you see in recent Fashion Weeks?

Wet-look hair was very prominent again. There was also a lot of dark colour, perfect ponytails, scruffy buns and messy, textured knots.

How can stylists recreate these looks in the salon?

It’s important to make the style relevant to each client. Any look on a client, whether it’s a cut, colour or updo, is all about suitability. Firstly, you need to do a proper consultation to figure out who your client is, and what sort of Fashion Week look they want, and are able to carry. If it’s something edgy, then perhaps you can push more of that wet look, or something highly saturated with product. If it’s more of a conservative look, you can create something softer and a bit more pared down. As a stylist, you need to use your abilities and skills to give your client a look that works in all ways for them.

As bridal season approaches, can any of these styles be adapted for the client’s big day?

Again, it depends on the client – in this instance, the bride – and how far she is willing to push it. Taking a classic chignon to a messier, more textured knot can be quite a risk; you will need to see if it suits the dress, and if it looks beautiful, and not just messy. Always do trials with brides, then leave the style in to see how long it lasts because you want it to still look perfect at the end of the night. A‘messier’ trend still needs to be balanced and refined.

Where do you get inspiration for your own work?

A lot of what I do is collaborative, so I’m constantly inspired by the people I work with, and those who are around me. Social media platforms such as Instagram and Pinterest are great for inspiration. I am also inspired by the stylists I teach; sometimes they are a lot younger than me, and they will tell me about an artist or celebrity I’ve never heard of. You need to stay open to everything.

‘Work hard and stay humble; you never stop learning as a hairdresser, so don’t assume that you’re finished and that you’ve reached the top’

You’ve styled numerous celebrities, who stands out the most for you?

Doing Billie Eilish’s hair was definitely a ‘pinch me’ moment. I did it for the Brits in 2020, when her hair was green and black, and I did it again in 2021 for the No Time to Die premiere, when she had gone blonde. Those were amazing experiences.

How can hair professionals stay on top of their game?

Work hard and stay humble; you never stop learning as a hairdresser, so don’t assume that you’re finished and that you’ve reached the top. Keep working and pushing yourself forward. Practise as much as possible, and have as many skills as you can, so you are able to create any look you are asked for. Having a good arsenal of favourite tools and products is always the best way to do a job well. Do as many courses as you can, and never stop being willing to learn.

Don’t look on a course as something you have to do – all the upskilling and extra training is an investment in your career. Be like a sponge for new knowledge and experiences. Enter awards and competitions; it doesn’t matter if you don’t win, it’s all a learning curve.

You won London Hairdresser of the Year at HJ’s British Hairdressing Awards 2016. Do you have any tips for stylists entering our inaugural PB/HJ Awards in November?

If you are putting together a written entry, then don’t be afraid to promote yourself, and shout about your abilities.

If you believe in what you do, then tell people – but remember to do this in a humble way. If there is a photographic element to the competition, I always say there needs to be a ‘story’ within your collection, rather than just a group of individual images. Be really tough on yourself in order to choose your best work and achieve the collection you want. The judges may not know you or your work, so use your entry to give yourself the best chance possible to portray how good you are.