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Tonal range

As we head into a new season, we asked some hair professionals for their tips on planning clients’ hair colour appointments over the colder months

HAIR: JOLENE MCCARTHY
PHOTOGRAPHY: LEE MITCHELL
MAKE-UP: DANIELLE CURREN NIAMH HAYDEN

When it comes to hair colour, the arrival of a new season brings a range of options, from subtle twists on traditional tones to bolder shades. “I think rich reds and coppers will be among the biggest colour trends this autumn/winter,” says Maureen Mccarthy, owner of Brush ‘N’ Blush in Tralee, Co Kerry.

“Copper and auburn tones are always big this time of year, and I think bright, fiery orange coppers and reds are going to make a comeback in 2022,” notes Niamh Hayden, owner of Divine Hair by Niamh Hayden in Waterford and Matrix artist ambassador. “Neutral multi-dimensional blonde is going to be popular too, created using the client’s natural colour mixed with cool and warm blonde tones.”

“This is my favourite time of year for hair colour,” says Sarah Mason, owner of Sarah Mason Professional in Galway. “Deep rustic chestnuts, shimmering bitter cherry chocolates, reds with a blue accent and creamy cashmere blondes with deep dimension are among the key looks that I adore.”

“After lockdown, blondes embraced a more rooted, lived-in look, but for 2022, they are opting for brighter tones and are happy to come back to the salon more often,”says Jolene McCarthy, owner of The Hair Room in Blanchardstown, Dublin.

“After a summer of bright and bold colours, I think we are going to see a huge lean back to natural paints, lived-in colour, silky brunettes and other low-maintenance colouring techniques,” says Emma Marcy Collins from ODD in Limerick, who recently won the L’Oréal Colour Trophy Ireland.

Seasonal shifts

As the evenings get longer and darker, most clients are eager to consider different hair colour options. “I have been planning my clients’ winter colour palette and preparing their appointments,” says Mason. “Everything changes from season to season, and planning the next colour experience with your client keeps them on their toes and excited.”

“Clients opt to go a little darker at this time of year, adding some richness to their blonde and brunettes, which I love, as it offers them something different, without changing their hair colour too much,” says Hayden. “It also keeps the hair journey between you and your clients interesting.”

“Consultation is key, and as well as factoring in skin tone and eye colour, you should discuss a client’s wardrobe with them,” adds Mason. “Sometimes you need to alter those colour mixtures to create compatibility for each individual; I always like to see variations of tones, not clones!”

“For years, our colouring techniques were far more limited; darker and warmer were our only options as we approached the autumn/winter months,” says Marcy Collins. “At ODD, we believe curation is the key all year around. For the coming season, we will definitely be introducing a little more depth, distribution and tonal changes, but always keeping the individual in mind. Trends are important, but so are suitability, affordability and curated techniques. And because there are so many components to be taken into consideration when tweaking blonde or brunette clients, consultation is crucial.”

“If a client wants to change up their colour for the autumn/winter months, I advise them not to do anything too drastic, especially if they think they’ll want to go back to their summer shade the next year,” says Laura O'Dowd, Ashleigh Kelly Hairdressing, Dublin, and Schwarzkopf Professional Ignite team member. “So I would suggest they opt for a root smudge or darker/warmer lowlights, which will allow them to easily switch back to their summer colour.”

‘The biggest shift I’ve seen with grey hair is blending instead of full coverage; it’s a softer, more natural and modern look, and requires less maintenance’

“We are doing more brunette balayage, and adding speckled lightness through the hair, which is great for clients that like to change up their colour throughout the different seasons,” says McCarthy. “They can opt for honey hues in summer and richer colours such as coppers for autumn/winter.”

“Face-framing balayage is popular too, with subtle blonde through brown,” says Emma Dempsey, House of Colour, Dublin, and Schwarzkopf Professional Ignite team member. “A lot of clients are opting to tone down and bring their natural root colour back for a softer look.”

Meanwhile, many clients are still happy to embrace their grey strands. “The biggest shift I’ve seen with grey hair is blending instead of full coverage; it’s a softer, more natural and modern look, and requires less maintenance,” says McCarthy. “Grey hair has lost most of its natural moisture, so a weekly masque and leave-in conditioner is important for these clients.”

“Grey is here to stay, but it’s time to tip some mauve into those mixtures to make those salt and peppers more muted in tone,” says Mason. “I am loving this look, and have acquired quite a fascinating grey clientele, who are pushing for strong shapes and beautiful styles.”

Homecare recommendations

HAIR: JOLENE MCCARTHY
PHOTOGRAPHY: KEST
MAKE-UP: LYNDSEY KEOGH

Having a dedicated homecare regime plays a huge role in all clients’ colour commitments. “Treating hair with professional products on a regular basis will keep it in optimal condition, allowing clients to explore a lot more colour options as the seasons change,” says Marcy Collins. “L'Oréal Professionnel Metal Detox is our hero homecare range.”

“A consultation is also a good idea so you can talk to the client about how their hair is feeling, what elements are missing, and what products can help to build the hair or manage it between visits,” says Hayden. “My current favourite recommendation for my blonde clients is the new Instacure range from Matrix.”

“Depending on the time of year, I switch up clients’ homecare,” says McCarthy. “Alfaparf Milano’s Semi Di Lino Moisture range is great in summer, while the Scalp range is ideal in autumn and spring, As the seasons change, we're more prone to scalp issues, which should be treated when the weather is not too hot or cold.”

“Haircare is very specific to the needs of what you are trying to achieve,” says Mason. “When it comes to my blonde clients, I recommend System Professional – Iam a big fan of the Repair and LuxeOil lines, and the new Lipid Booster.”

“I advise my colour clients to use milk_ shake Colour Maintainer Shampoo to protect and ensure longevity of their colour, or Silver Shine Shampoo for blondes and greys, to neutralise any brassy or yellow tones,” says Mccarthy. “I also suggsest a weekly treatment, such as milk_shake Integrity Intensive Treatment.” “Professional products are essential when it comes to homecare for coloured hair,” says Dempsey. “I always recommend Schwarzkopf Professional’s Bonacure Color Freeze range, which freezes colour pigments inside the hair matrix to prevent fading.”

This article appears in the Sept/Oct 2022 Issue of Professional Beauty & HJ Ireland

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This article appears in the Sept/Oct 2022 Issue of Professional Beauty & HJ Ireland