Extension Skills

1Consultation comes first

“Consultation is one of the most important parts of eyelash extension treatments,” says Claire Ryan, owner of Claire Ryan Lash Studio & Academy in Cork. “It is here we discuss the client’s desired look, and assess the natural lash condition, thickness, growth direction, eye shape, axis and eye set. With this knowledge, we can then decide what is most suitable for the client, and what will best align with their expectations, while still protecting the integrity of the natural lash. The reputation of your business starts with a successful lash consultation, and by giving the client your care and attention from the start, you will help them feel comfortable during the treatment.”

“The consultation is also a good opportunity to get to know your client, and find out about their lifestyle and daily activities, so that you can set realistic expectations from the outset,” says Kellie Fitzgibbon a Dublin-based freelance make-up artist and lash technician. “For example, if your client is in the gym five times a week, they will likely need to return for infills every two weeks, rather than every three.”

“Use the consultation to explain everything about the lash treatment to your client,” advises Jolanta Boruszek, owner of Egoist Beauty in Cork. “Let them know how long the treatment takes, what it costs, and the need for patch testing and aftercare. Make sure also to answer any questions they might have.”

2 Mapping is a must

“Mapping not only ensures symmetry, it helps to increase application time, and it teaches you how to utilise the lash layers to create the chosen style,” says Ryan. “It also allows you to apply corrective styling. A client with downturned eyes can have them lifted using the right map and lash curls, or a client with narrow eyes can have their lashes styled to open them wider. The possibilities are endless with the right map and knowledge. And by keeping note of the lash maps you use on each client, you will always know what you have applied.” “Begin the lash mapping by assessing the client’s eye shape,” advises Fitzgibbon. “The main eye shapes are round, almond and monolid. Also, check if the client has hooded, deep set or protruding eyes, and whether they are symmetrical, large or small. Another important feature to consider is spacing – eyes can be evenly spaced, close set or wide set. You will then need to assess the strength and length of your client’s natural lashes in order to determine what extensions will suit them. Remember, when it comes to lash extensions, one style doesn’t fit all, and it could take multiple appointments to find the perfect look for your client.”

3 Know your adhesive

“The correct way to store your opened bottles of adhesive is upright in an airtight container, at room temperature and out of direct sunlight,” says Fitzgibbon. “Adhesive that has gone off will usually take on a stringy consistency and will not grab onto the natural lash.”

“Shaking your adhesive is very important because the glue usually has four main ingredients,” says Boruszek . “These are ethyl cyanoacrylate to help the adhesive grab onto lashes and dry almost instantly; poly(methyl methacrylate), which is the part of the adhesive that forms the long-lasting, strong bond; carbon black, which is only included in black adhesives and is not present in clear glues; and hydroquinone to prevent the glue from curing inside the bottle. If the glue is not shaken properly, it does not work because some of these ingredients are heavier than others.

“Your salon temperature will affect adhesive too. The perfect temperature for glue is 18-25°C – we try to keep this temperature in our salon all the time. This is achievable in Ireland as it’s generally never too hot. In winter, we sometimes use heaters.”

“You can make any glue work for you by understanding your environment,” says Ryan. “The humidity and temperature must always be opposite. For example, if you have low humidity, you need a higher temperature, and with higher humidity, you need a lower temperature. Regardless of the environment, it is best to change your glue dot every 15 to 20 minutes to ensure it remains in its best condition.”

4 Advise on aftercare

“Eyelashes are designed to catch dust and dirt, and to stop it from going in our eyes, so it’s crucial that clients clean their lashes regularly at home,” says Fitzgibbon. “Make-up, dead skin and oil builds up daily, and is not good for lashes or eyes. Eyelash extensions are an investment, in terms of both time and money, so it is very important that the client gets the most from the investment they have made. Always advise them to buy and use a lash shampoo or cleanser with a brush that is specifically designed for eyelash extensions, as this will be safe for the eye, have antibacterial properties and will not affect the glue bonds.”

‘Eyelash extensions are an investment, in terms of both time and money, so it is very important that the client gets the most from the investment they have made’

‘The consultation is also a good opportunity to get to know your client, and find out about their daily lifestyle and activites’

“The lash shampoo or cleaner should be water-based, in order to keep the lashes in the best condition,” says Boruszek “It shouldn’t be oily because then the lashes won’t last.”

“After cleaning their lashes, clients can allow them to dry naturally, or pat them gently with a clean towel and fluff them back up with a lash spoolie,” says Ryan. There is no reason for a client to use a hairdryer on lashes, and if they do, it should only be on a cold setting. Lashes are made up of a material called polybutylene terephthalate (PBT), which is a type of plastic – therefore, if heat is applied, they will lose their shape, get singed or even possibly melt.”

5 Rebook appointments

“Clients wishing to retain a full lash line consistently are advised to refill every two to three weeks,” says Ryan. “Anything after this is usually a new full set, as although the lashes may retain, they will have grown to the point where they are weighing down the natural lash. If they are not removed and replaced, there’s a risk that the natural lash will prematurely pull from the follicle, causing gaps until the natural lash cycle is complete, or damage to the natural lash and hair follicle.

“Lash extensions are great for repeat business as clients love them once they’ve tried them. They cut morning routines in half, and if they’re applied properly and looked after, they last for a very acceptable amount of time.”

“Always try to book your client’s next appointment before they leave to ensure your books are full and your clients are happy, especially now in the run-up to Christmas and the party season,” says Fitzgibbon.