Spotlight on… vitamin F

This humble essential fatty acid is crucial in maintaining a healthy skin barrier and calming any nasty inflammation. Amanda Pauley delves into the science behind the powerful anti-inflammatory

Why the hype?

Vitamin F is an unsung hero in skincare – an under-the-radar ingredient that helps to hydrate and replenish the skin.

“Vitamin F is an essential fatty acid and essential fatty acids are vital for the function of normal, healthy cells,” says Daniel Isaacs, director of research at Medik8. “Deficiencies can lead to dry skin, decreased skin cell regeneration and a compromised skin barrier.”

Vitamin F is an anti-inflammatory, high in antioxidants and works to restore the skin’s barrier, so it has a lot of benefits.

“It is oil-soluble, meaning it slips into the natural skin barrier with ease, to nourish, replenish and support its function in protecting the skin and retaining moisture,” explains Isaacs.

“A healthy skin barrier also helps to calm the appearance of inflammation and compromised skin, instead promoting a visibly radiant glow across the complexion. Blemish-prone skin tends to be naturally lacking in omega 6, so vitamin F is ideal to rebalance for a clearer looking complexion.”

How does it work?

Let’s delve into the science a bit deeper because how this vitamin works isn’t quite as clear cut as some other vitamins.

Vitamin F is not a traditional vitamin, but a term that was given by scientists to cover the group of essential fatty acids (EFA), notably alpha-linolenic acid (ALA) and linoleic acid (LA), according to Dr Emma Craythorne, dermatologist at Skinceuticals.

LA is an essential fatty acid and an omega-6 fatty acid, while ALA is an omega 3 fatty acid.

“In science we use the EFAs by their names, but in skincare the term ‘vitamin F’ is often used to cover all EFAs, or the most common, which is LA,” explains Dr Craythorne. “These EFAs play a huge role in hydration and elasticity of the skin. In fact, in terms of wound healing, topical application has been shown to shorten ulcer healing time.”

Vitamin F is also a major component in ceramides, which make up about half of the skin’s natural lipid barrier.

Are they any side effects?

Topical vitamin F is suitable for all skin types, including blemish-prone and sensitive skins. There are no common side effects, but do follow each product manufacturer’s recommendations.

“Anyone can use it, however, some might initially find the oiliness of vitamin F off-putting. But it has been shown to be of benefit in acne, so it should be pursued,” says Dr Craythorne.

It’s recommended that you start clients off with small amounts at first, and then move them on from there. Isaacs advises beginning with vitamin F cleanser. “This is the perfect way to try out a new active skincare ingredient due to the wash-off format,” he notes.

The vitamin F group also works well with sunscreen and can easily become an important part of a client’s regular skincare routine, but Craythorne suggests avoiding using it alongside benzoyl peroxide, due to the fact that “they would directly compete against each other”.

‘Blemish-prone skin tends to be naturally lacking in omega 6, so vitamin F is ideal to rebalance for a clearer looking complexion’

Where can vitamin F be sourced?

Since your body is unable to make LA and ALA, clients will need to get these fats from their diet, as well as their beauty products, for overall skin health.

They play crucial roles in the overall body function too, such as providing cell structure, aiding growth, and helping to make signalling compounds that help regulate blood pressure, immune system response and more. The vitamin can be found in a multitude of foods, including almonds, chia seeds, egg yolks, hemp seeds and avocado.