Lamination NATION

Having emerged as a trending technique prior to the pandemic, brow lamination has continued to grow in popularity, with the treatment appealing to a wide range of clients

Brow lamination has been building a steady global fan base in the past few years, having originated in Moscow in Russia in 2019, before spreading to Europe and the US. The technique began to gain traction in Ireland just before the Covid-19 pandemic, and since salons reopened, demand for it has continued to rise.

“Brow lamination is our most popular treatment,” says Rianna Moore, owner of Luxe Dublin, a lash and brow salon in Terenure in Dublin, which also houses Luxe Academy. “It first crept into the limelight in Ireland in 2021, and we were one of the first salons here to offer the service. It's taken over the world now and is a trending look worn by celebrities such as Dua Lipa, Gigi Hadid and Zendaya.”

“Brow lamination is as popular now as it was when it first came to Ireland a few years ago,”says Kelley Duff, owner of Wicked Beauty in Ashbourne, Co Meath. “In fact, I would even say that we do more lamination treatments now.”

So what exactly is brow lamination? Put simply, it's a semi-permanent treatment that creates natural looking, brushed-up brows in around 30 minutes. Working in a similar way to a hair perm, lamination has often been described as being like a keratin treatment for brows – hairs are straightened using a chemical solution, and are then set in place in an upwards direction to give clients that 'just combed' look.

“Brow lamination controls, shapes and lifts the brows to a whole new level,” explains Lucy McAlister who operates Brows by Lucy McAlister in salons in Meath and Dublin. “It is a two-step eyebrow perming treatment that involves correcting the brow shape by setting the hairs in place. In the first step, solution is applied to break down bonds in the hair. In the second step, another setting solution is applied to rebuild these bonds and set the brows in their new uniform position.”

“It works in a similar way to the well-known lash lift, and it is often paired with a brow tint to enhance the finished look,” adds Heather Crotty, owner of Fuchsia Hair & Beauty in Ballyogan in Dublin.

Client suitability

As with any treatment, brow lamination begins with a consultation to find the client’s perfect brow shape. “It's very important to do a patch test on clients first if they've not had brow lamination done before,” says Duff. “It's not suitable for everyone as the solution can irritate the skin and cause a reaction.”

“A patch test will check for allergies or sensitivities,” says Moore. “Although rare, you need to be aware that some clients may experience a reaction to the lamination solution or other products used during the treatment.”

If the solution doesn't cause irritation or a reaction, the good news is that brow lamination can appeal to any client. “It's ideal for someone with unruly, curly brows, who spends hours grooming them, while also being great for those with thin or patchy brows, who want a fuller, thicker look,” says McAlister. “Brow lamination makes life much easier for these clients.”

“It is suitable for everyone,” agrees Moore. “In particular, clients with sparse brows get the most amazing results – because we are working with their hair length, and not thickness, it can be a massive confidence booster for those with thin, ’90s brows.”

“We have clients of all ages coming into the salon and asking about brow lamination,” says Crotty. “It's fantastic for those with hard-to-control brows, as the treatment gives them perfectly-shaped brows that last for several weeks.”

Common issues

Every client is different, so you really need to understand the lamination process to ensure you deliver the best service. “When laminating brows, we have the luxury to see the structure change – you can feel the texture of the hairs change and become softer – so you know when they’re processed,” says Lisa Stone, an expert in brow treatments and a Salon System educator.

The key is to not overprocess and to avoid using tools that scrape against the skin when applying the product, as this can result in sensitive and sore skin.

“Brow hairs respond fast to the chemical, and the structure of the hair can change very quickly, which is why timing is so important,” notes Stone. “Don’t just apply and leave the product on; you need to be observant throughout the entire process. I always teach my students not to assume the hairs will need the full process time.”

'The treatment lasts from about six to eight weeks, and we advise clients to wait for at least six weeks between each brow lamination appointment so they don't overprocess the brows'

If your client has very thick, layered brows, then make sure you’re only applying the product on top of the hair because then there is a risk of missing the lower layers.

“Only laminating the upper layer will result in a brow lamination that isn’t smooth or even. My best advice is to apply the product against the growth first, and then with it, so that the hairs are sandwiched in between the product and are sufficiently covered,” explains Stone.

“If the hairs are resilient, strong and tend to stand up straight, then place clear wrap over the brows once the product is applied, because this replaces the need to glue and keeps hairs flat and coated in product.”

It's also a good idea to watch out for potential product waste. “You need to dispose of the solution sachets once they are opened on the day, so if your salon doesn’t do a few treatments in a day, you will be wasting both product and money,” warns Duff.

Business benefits

That aside, brow lamination has some great business benefits. “It is very good for increasing revenue as few materials are needed,” says Moore. And while aftercare is minimal, there are opportunities to boost retail sales with various product offerings, she adds.

“It's a really low-maintenance treatment – aftercare initially involves no heat, steam or water for the first 24 hours. After this time, clients are free to do as they please, but we really encourage them to use oil on a daily basis to keep the brows hydrated and healthy – a bit like the way they would use conditioner on their hair. Brow lamination is done every eight weeks, but we also offer clients a brow lamination maintenance treatment, which is done at the four-week mark and includes a brow shape, tint and keratin treatment.”

“It is essential to keep the brows nourished following the brow lamination process,” stresses Duff. “We recommend using an oil on the brows at night from two days post-treatment to ensure they do not dry out. The treatment lasts from about six to eight weeks, and we advise clients to wait for at least six weeks between each brow lamination appointment so they don't overprocess the brows. They can, however, have a shape and tint done between appointments if they find they have regrowth.”

If you're planning on adding brow lamination to your menu, it's a good idea to market your new service. “Showcasing your work on social media, or launching the service through an email campaign with a photo attached will encourage new and existing clients to try it,” says Moore. “The visual results will speak for themselves. My favourite thing about brow lamination is that it enhances the natural brow – after the treatment, the client's brows still look natural, while having a sleek, yet fluffy, appearance.”

“There are no extensions or permanent make-up involved in a brow lamination process – it's 100% done using just the client's own hair,” adds McAlister.