LATEST HUES

From on-trend tones to the very latest techniques, this autumn/winter is an exciting time for hair colour, both for stylists and their clients

When it comes to hair colour, this time of year marks the arrival of the latest seasonal tones and techniques, be they brand new or twists on the traditional. Mark Sherwood from Zeba Hairdressing in Dublin has identified three key colour trends for this coming autumn/winter. Sherwood and his colleague Augusto Miranda recently won the L’Oréal Colour Trophy Ireland 2023.

“These three trends are expensive blonde, which involves highlights and lowlights, and is all about soft contrast and golden tones, with the overall effect being incredibly natural; glossy brunette, which incorporates hair health, while proving that brown hair doesn’t have to be boring; and fiery shades, a collection of vibrant hues such as reds, burgundys and rich auburns, which look fantastic on Irish skin tones,” he explains.

“I think we will see a lots of brunette shades, but with a twist, such as faceframing with a shade or two lighter than the base,” says Coia Dahill, Alfaparf Milano Professional brand ambassador and owner of Hemera in Clonmel, Co Tipperary. “I believe our blondes will remain slightly warmer, and we won’t see the return of heavy ash blondes just yet.”

“The return of the golden blonde is going to take the world by storm,” says Aaron Nation, head of education at Kevin. Murphy in Ireland. “In the past few years, there has been a strong push for an ashy approach to blonding services, but these colder tones can appear harsh, and also put the health of the hair under pressure. With the new warmer and more golden tones, blondes will be healthier and have a much more expensive look.”

“In contrast to last winter’s muted coppers, I think we are in for a treat this year with the arrival of beautiful and vibrant multi-tonal coppers,” says Ashleigh Kelly, owner of Ashleigh Kelly Hairdressing in Dublin. “Glassy and glossy cool brunettes will be another huge trend, and lived-in blondes and balayage brondes are here to stay – if anything, they are becoming more popular. And Barbie blonde will continue to be centre stage.”

'In contrast to last winter’s muted coppers, I think we are in for a treat this year with the arrival of beautiful and vibrant multi-tonal coppers'

“Coppers and warmer shades will always be big for autumn/winter, but this year I think we will see some nice apricots for highlights and balayage, as well as some rich and shiny multi-dimensional brunettes,” says Niamh Hayden, Matrix artist ambassador and owner of Divine Hair by Niamh Hayden in Waterford.

According to Sharron McGee, Keune ambassador and owner of Sharron's Hairdressers in Letterkenny, Co Donegal, social media will give a good indication of what to expect. “Over the summer, we saw lots of blondes and cool tones on Instagram – we didn’t see a brunette for weeks! From the start of September, we will begin to see lots of brondes, along with shades such as caramel and coffee hazelnut. Blondes will start to have a more lived-in look – they will still be bright, but with soft tones.”

Client requests

With the days getting shorter and colder, many clients opt to go a little darker at this time of year. “Clients tend to want to go for darker or warmer shades as we head into autumn/winter, and I’m happy to oblige as long as it’s not too drastic – especially when it’s only seasonal,” says Dahill.

'Clients are really embracing what they like themselves and are expressing that, which leads to more versatility behind the chair'

“We can add some warmth to a brunette, or some dimension and depth. Then it’s to easy reverse after the winter. I always tell clients to think about the long term, and not to do anything too extreme when it’s only going to be for a few months. And they should always consult with their stylist about what shade will suit them and work best with their skin tone and eye colour.”

“I advise my clients to avoid drastically changing their colour when we are going into a different season,” says Martina Gahan, head of education for Eleven Australia in Ireland. “In fact, I recommend that they go for a slightly lighter shade at this time of year because when we head into the darker seasons, hair can sometimes appear dull. That said, if they do decide to go a bit darker, I recommend they change tone. Consultation is always key here, and inspo pics are vital as well.”

“Clients tend to ask for a change to a darker colour at this time of the year, but I do think it is a good idea to discuss this a few months in advance in order to plan that journey and keep your client coming back to you, excited for their next hair appointment,” says Hayden.

“For blondes, I recommend toners or direct dyes as they are easy to remove and we can change back to the original colour, without damage to the hair. For brunettes, I would say less is more – so I suggest little pops of colour or colourblocking sections toned with some rich copper or a warmer red, to make these brunettes more expensive looking, but still on the darker side.”

On-trend techniques

Indeed colour-blocking/panelling is set to be big this autumn/winter, according to Jordan Cobella, Wella Professionals UK & Ireland colour trends ambassador. “This trend was an evolution of the popular ‘money piece’ that gradually got bolder and less blended last year,” she explains. “It has evolved from a blended piece at the front into a pop of colour or a statement shade that stands alone as a panel of colour. It is influenced by Japanese street fashion and the two-tone interior trend, and is an evolution of the ‘skunk’ hair trend from the Nineties.

“Colour blocking can be introduced in many different ways. A bold panel pop at the front of the hair could be a nice introduction to a colour change for any client, but with a lower commitment. For those who are bored of highlights, it could be introduced as an Alice band of colour behind the front piece. For mid-length or bob clients, it could be done as a hidden panel underneath. And for any clients who have greys across their parting, the Alice band could be called the ‘wisdom streak’ – a grey or white panel to blend in any natural grey hair.”

“The Scandinavian hairline is making a big impact currently, and will be around for a while to come,” says Nation.

“Before deciding to do this, you need to make sure the client has the correct hair for it. It is a gorgeous technique, but should be reserved for those with a natural depth of medium blonde and upwards. Trying to achieve this on darker depths may result in a warmer result, with a stark contrast to the natural hair.”

'Clients are still very much embracing their grey hair, but are opting for different toners to blend with their natural colour and create ribbons of colour'

“It is hard for me to put a finger on one trend, which has been a breath of fresh air,” says Sherwood. “Clients are really embracing what they like themselves and are expressing that, which leads to more versatility behind the chair as we are not doing the same thing over and over. As professionals, it also means we are giving clients styles that reflect their personalities, and not looks that they are requesting because they happen to be on-trend.

“But if I was to pick one thing that I am seeing more of – and that I love – it would be the softening of blondes, whereby lowlights and root shadows are added to turn high-maintenance blondes into a softer and more natural shade of blonde.”

Shades of grey

After having a major moment during the Covid-19 lockdown, grey hair is still a popular choice. “Clients are still very much embracing their grey hair, but are opting for different toners to blend with their natural shade and create ribbons of colour – for example, lighter shades around the face, with some darker slices to allow the lighter grey areas to pop,” says Hayden.

“Some are experimenting with toners that we give them for a short-term glow – that way they don’t have big root regrowth, while also having a temporary change,” says McGee.

“Instead of breaking up old, growingout colour with highlights, we are zone-toning areas of the hair with different grey shades, such as dove grey and grey lilac, for optimal blending to enhance the client's natural look,” says Kelly.

“Grey hair has been transformed in recent years,” notes Nation. “Clients are rocking their natural grey locks. For those looking to enhance them, I'd recommend a toner, which will not cover the grey, but will deposit a gorgeous reflection of tones such as violet, beige or dusky pink. Just because a client has embraced the more natural route doesn’t mean they can’t indulge in a splash of colour.”

Meanwhile, any colour service brings an opportunity to retail to clients, benefitting both the health of their hair and your business. “Homecare is crucial after every colour service; I always recommend professional shampoos, conditioners and treatments to my clients to keep their hair in optimal condition until the next colour appointment,” says Kelly.

“Any client wishing to alter their colour for autumn/winter should always be aware of the process involved in bringing their hair back to their original shade for the following summer,” says Nation. “Maintaining the condition and integrity of the hair should always be the main concern, and professional homecare products are the key to achieving this.”

“Clients are much more concerned now about what they are using on their hair, and I think that we, as stylists, are equally invested in meeting our clients' needs, and ensuring they use products to benefit their hair health,” notes Gahan. “I absolutely love this industry – there is so much to offer now. After being in it for over 30 years, it keeps getting better and better!”