3 mins
CLIP IT read GOOD
We asked some hair professionals about the clippers tips, tricks and techniques they use to achieve a range of styles
TARIQ HOWES
With more and more hair professionals looking to make their mark on social media, some unique methods are being used to gain online engagement – but it's hard to know which techniques are worth trying, particularly when it comes to clippers.
Outside the lines
Using clippers for a blunt cut is a method commonly seen on platforms such as TikTok and Instagram, but does this technique hold up in reality? “I’m not a fan of this unless it’s just to remove a lot of hair before a colour service,” says session stylist Luke Benson. “It gives too much graduation so you need to go through the hair and correct with scissors in smaller sections anyway.”
“I think this technique is showy,” says Stephen O'Driscoll, artistic director at Marbles Castletroy, which is part of the Hugh Campbell Hair Group in Limerick. “In order to achieve an optimum controlled result, you need to utilise a methodical sectioning pattern that mirrors the desired shape. I like to cut with a scissors and add detail with a mini clippers when going for the ultimate blunt look.”
Wahl artistic team member Rhys Whitehouse likes blunt-cutting curly hair with his Wahl Berets. “Wet, curly hair folds around the fingers when taking your sections, and you can often nick yourself with scissors when you're trying to be as accurate as possible,” he explains.
“So using clippers means I get a clean and accurate cut, without risking cutting myself. I also find it speeds up cutting the top when I have a curly-haired client in my chair.”
All tools serve a purpose,” adds Benson. “They should be used in whatever way can help you achieve the desired result.”
Innovative ideas
For some stylists, finding new ways of doing things can lead to unexpected results. “I’m always looking for innovative ways to use clippers and trimmers, and I have experimented on longer hair by using clippers to create layers, and for slicing,” says Kevin Luchman, Andis international artistic team lead. “This has proved very effective to create shape and texture. Clippers are usually used to remove bulk or for fading, so this brings a new dimension to using clippers on both men and women’s hair.”
Ambassador for BaByliss PRO Jody Taylor has seen some unusual techniques. “I watched someone do a freehand haircut on mid-length hair with clippers, and while I initially thought I would never approach a haircut like that, it was also really intriguing and now I want to test it out.”
“On very thick and short straight hair that stacks out, I like to brush-cut with a mini neck clippers,” says O'Driscoll. “It's a great technique, but it requires precision and discipline, along with a very steady hand. The results are amazing, but don't try this after four coffees! I personally love both the Wahl Detailer and Wahl Peanut – I also use them for cutting wigs.”
Practice makes perfect
There's advice too for any novices. “I would always recommend that an apprentice starts with clippers that have a taper blade, and not just a fade blade,” says Ian Harrold, lead educator for American Crew. “The taper blade is more forgiving and lets you build confidence working freehand off the head.”
Ambassador for BaByliss PRO Tariq Howes agrees that developing confidence is key, noting that it’s all about getting used to the feel of the clippers in your hand, the same way you do with scissors. “Practise the movements of the clippers, even if it’s for 20 minutes while watching TV. The first art is knowing the different ways to hold them, and then knowing the techniques behind using them.”
Meanwhile, taking good care of your clippers is a must for optimum performance. “Look after your clippers – clean, well-maintained clippers will give you better haircuts, more respect from your clients and will save you money in the long run,” advises Wez Jones, owner of the Heartbreak Club Barbershop in Essex in the UK.
“Most importantly, don't drop them,” says O'Driscoll. “And take good care of them if you want them to last. This includes sanitising them after every client, and oiling the blades a little on a daily basis.”
This article appears in the SEPT/OCT 2023 Issue of Professional Beauty & HJ Ireland
If you would like to view other issues of Professional Beauty & HJ Ireland, you can see the full archive
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This article appears in the SEPT/OCT 2023 Issue of Professional Beauty & HJ Ireland