SMOOTH THE WAY

Hair smoothing treatments, particularly keratin treatments, have been increasing in popularity in recent years, as clients seek new and innovative ways to manage their hair. These semi-permanent therapies involve a chemical process that smoothes and shines frizzy hair, while strengthening it and reducing drying time. If you're thinking about adding this specialised service to your business, you should arm yourself with knowledge about what is involved in offering these treatments.

What hair types are suitable for smoothing treatments?

“We use Alfaparf Milano Professional's Keratin Therapy Lisse Design, which is suitable for all kinds of hair, including curly, frizzy, brittle, fine and thick hair,” says Zara McNamara, owner of Hair by Zara in Blarney in Cork. “I have treated clients in the salon with all of these hair types, and every one of them has been extremely happy with the results.”

Niamh Horan is a mobile hair stylist and educator for Cocochoco, which has three different strengths and types of keratin to choose from. “This allows me to work on all hair types,” she says. “One is suitable for strong and coarse hair, one is suitable for medium, textured hair, and the other works on fine and delicate hair that has been bleached. When using any type of keratin, I would recommend keeping porosity in mind for two reasons. Firstly, keratin is not a treatment that is going to enter the cortex and change the structure of the hair permanently. It is, however, going to be laminated on the cuticle of the hair. If the hair is extremely porous, the cuticle layer is already elevated, meaning the treatment can work faster.

“Secondly, to prepare the hair for a keratin treatment, we need to evenly elevate the cuticle layer by using a clarifying shampoo. Hair that has low porosity may take a lot more clarifying to achieve this. Uneven elevation of the cuticle layer may result in uneven results throughout the hair.”

Can these treatments be done on coloured hair?

“Keratin treatments are suitable for coloured hair,” says Horan. “Depending on the brand you are using, it may be recommended not to do the colour service until two weeks after the keratin treatment. The keratin itself will not lead to the colour fading, but the heat needed to activate the treatment may fade the colour slightly. I would advise any client with a very vibrant colour to consider having the keratin treatment done first, and then to wait at least two weeks before having their colour done.”

“When we were considering introducing smoothing services into our salon, one of the big deciding factors for us was how they would perform alongside our colour services,” says Natalie Redmond, owner of Redmond's Hair & Beauty Salon in Portlaoise, Co Laois. “We offer two different hair smoothing treatments – Keratin Nanocure and ProAddiction. Keratin Nanocure contains nano molecules of keratin protein, which not only strengthen and smooth the cuticle of the hair, but also penetrate into the fiber of the hair, rebuilding and restoring from within.

“ProAddiction is a new technology that works differently to a keratin treatment. It doesn’t coat the outside of the hair, is rinsed prior to hot ironing and doesn't contain any harsh alkaline ingredients. Both these brands are compatible with colour services, which is great for both our clients and business.”

What should be covered during the consultation?

“The most important part of any hairdressing service is the consultation, as this is your time to fully understand the client’s expectations and if it’s possible for you to deliver on them,” says Horan.

“When it comes to hair smoothing treatments, I recommend having an in-person consultation with the client first to discuss a number of things. For example, the client may need to leave their hair down without getting any dents or jumps in it for up to 72 hours after having the treatment done. They should know this in advance so they can take their day-to-day life into consideration and book their appointment at the most suitable time for them. Equally, if a patch test is required, then it’s important to carry this out at least 48 hours before the treatment.

“It's also very important to clearly explain to the client what to expect from one of these treatments. I tell my clients that they should see anything from a 70% to 100% reduction in frizz, with the results lasting approximately 12 to 16 weeks on average. However, this depends on a number of factors, including the previous condition of the hair, how the hair will react to the product, how porous the hair is and if proper aftercare products are used.”

“Consultation is key to ensuring we meet our clients’ expectations and choose the treatment best suited to achieving their hair goals,” says Redmond. “We first analyse the hair, and ask the client about the results they'd like to see. We also take lifestyle into consideration – for instance, we check if they swim regularly, and what their regular homecare regime involves. The answers we get give us a clearer picture, which informs our service recommendations.”

What should you look for in a supplier?

“You should make sure that the keratin you are using is coming from a reputable distributor that has followed all of the regulations required,” says Horan. “I would recommend using one that doesn’t deal with third parties, thereby ensuring that all products come directly from the manufacturer. This will get you the best price and support. And education is everything, so finding a brand that continues to educate and support its customers is very important.”

‘When we were considering introducing smoothing services into our salon, one of the big deciding factors for us was how they would perform alongside our colour services’

“Brand support is central to deciding on a product to work with,” agrees Redmond. “Full training and technical support, along with excellent customer service, is essential. You need a company that is readily available to answer questions and offer advice.”

“I always look to work with suppliers who offer support and ongoing training,” says McNamara. “In the salon, we are always looking to upskill and learn new techniques, which benefits our clients.”

It's also important that the product is formulated with the best ingredients. “You should firstly make sure that the keratin treatment is formaldehyde-free,” says Horan. “Ideal ingredients include l-arginine, which is an amino acid that revives hair from damage that has already been done. Ingredients that are derived from vegetables are also great, as they can repair the hair internally.”

“Cystine is a fantastic ingredient for adding extra strength,” says McNamara. “Argan oil is great for extra moisture and collagen promotes elasticity.”

“None of the products should contain formaldehyde,” agrees Redmond. “But just as importantly, they should not contain any ingredients that can produce formaldehyde gas during the treatment process. They should also have passed stringent testing and be certified for use in the EU.”

Can these treatments boost business?

Hair smoothing treatments are good for business, not least because of their retail opportunities, with aftercare being essential. “As I tell my clients, there's no point in investing money in one of these treatments, only to go home and wash and style their hair with cheap and harmful products,” says McNamara.

“Upselling is guaranteed as all clients will need to use professional sulphate-free shampoo and conditioner after their treatment in order to prolong the results,” notes Horan.

These treatments can also increase your client base. “My clients have seen such great results, they then tell family and friends about the treatment, leading to new clients in the salon,” says McNamara.

“Clients are very happy after getting this treatment done, and happy clients mean a successful business,” says Horan. “Being able to provide a service to my clients that smoothes their hair, enhances its condition, eliminates frizz and makes it much easier to style is a win-win.”

“As a salon, it is our responsibility to take care of not only the visual appearance of our client’s hair, but also its health, and we believe that the hair smoothing treatments we offer do just that,” adds Redmond. “And by adding them to our service menu, we have maintained happy and loyal clients, grown our business, increased our revenue and attracted new clients.”