Embracing WARMTH

With heat facials offering a multitude of benefits, Lauren Blanchard asked the professionals about how these treatments work

In the ever-evolving world of skincare, traditional facials are no longer the only option for clients looking for visible results.

Incorporating heat into facial treatments is a great way of offering them something new, which can benefit both their skin and your business.

Heat has long been associated with health and wellness, from the Romans who took hot air baths, to the first hot stone treatment, which took place in India some 5,000 years ago. So, it makes sense that it would be a welcome addition to a facial.

What are the benefits of heat in a facial?

“When you apply heat to the client's skin, it brings blood flow to the surface and wakes everything up,” explains Jennifer Boyce, manager of The Wicklow Street Clinic in Dublin, which has the Eminence Signature Vitamin C Heat Facial on its menu.

“It stimulates their fibroblasts, which releases their collagen-elastin – this is what is needed for plumping the skin, to help with fine lines and wrinkles. The heat also stimulates the client's hydration levels.”

‘Facials that incorporate heat are ideal for dry, mature skin as they can boost cell renewal and natural oils’

“Heat increases circulation, allowing oxygen and nutrients to move through the blood vessels,” says Jennifer Cullen, owner of Studio Dolls in Crumlin, Dublin, which offers a range of Académie Scientifique de Beauté facials, including the Thermo Active Mask Treatment.

“This is essential for cell renewal, which, in turn, promotes a more youthful appearance. By using heat, the skin produces its own natural oils, which also moisturise the skin to give it a glowing effect. Heat increases the skin's permeability, resulting in better absorption of skincare products. It also creates a soothing, warming effect on the skin, which revitalises its cells.”

How do you incorporate heat into a facial?

“Our Eminence facial uses natural ingredients, such as spices, to bring heat to the skin,” says Boyce. “The spice we use most is paprika, but we also have products with nettle, cinnamon and turmeric. We mix and match these to combine with other products like AHA fruit acids. This helps ensure we are working with both the surface of the skin and the deeper layers. We combine all of this with a Hungarian lymph nodes massage.”

“With our Thermo Active Mask Treatment, we apply a mask that provides a gentle heat to allow penetration of the active ingredients,” says Cullen. “An ampoule is applied to the skin prior to the mask, which allows the active ingredients to penetrate deeper. Clients feel the results on the skin immediately. If heat is not used, the skin does not benefit as well from the facial treatment. Without heat, the natural oils would not be produced, the pores would not dilate and the active ingredients would not penetrate as well.”

What skin type does heat work best on?

“We have ampoules with active ingredients available for different skin conditions or skin types, so there's something to suit every client,” says Cullen. “Facials that incorporate heat are ideal for dry, mature skin as they can boost cell renewal and natural oils. The ampoule allows the active ingredients to penetrate much deeper than with a normal mask, which is good for dehydrated or damaged skin. Heat facials also work on acne-prone or oily skin types because the heat unclogs pores and helps the lymphatic system under the skin to drain away any impurities.”

“It’s suitable for every skin type,” agrees Boyce. “Depending on the client, I may decide to build the heat. So if someone comes in and is nervous about it, I might just introduce heat in the cleanse to help wake the skin up. The client might not realise initially how stimulating and good for the skin it is, but once they get a taste of it, I guarantee they will want to take it up a notch the next time after seeing the results. We can then build on the heat levels. Everyone talks about how they want that glow – the way you get that glow is with heat!”

“The only contraindication to using the heat element in a facial would be if the client's skin is already hot to touch,” adds Cullen. “For example, a client may arrive for a facial, and their skin is extremely sensitive, aggravated and hot to touch. In this case, it would be unsuitable to apply more heat, and a cooling treatment should be recommended instead.”

What if the client believes their skin is too sensitive for heat?

“We hear clients saying that their skin is too sensitive all the time,” says Boyce. “It's a very Irish thing! But their skin is not too sensitive for a heat facial at all. Their skin's barrier is just a little compromised, and we need to work on that. Many see redness as a reaction. As therapists, when we see red, we are excited because we know what this is doing to the skin – we see it as something positive, not negative.

“For instance, a client with rosacea may come in, and I’ll still apply heat to their skin, because I need that blood flow to wake everything up. In a lot of advanced treatments, the aim is to stimulate blood flow, so why wouldn’t we do it in a facial?”

“Clients may be nervous about their skin becoming too red after a treatment, but it’s actually a positive short-term side effect that should last no longer than 24 hours,” notes Cullen.

“They should be told in advance that this can happen, that it’s very normal, and they should be advised to book their heat facial on a day off work so they are not worried about redness. The skin should be left untouched for 24 hours after treatment for the best results.”

Is a heat facial suitable for the winter months?

“This is a fantastic facial for the winter months as a lot of clients suffer more with skin disorders and conditions during this season,” says Cullen. “A heat facial is a great way to clear up dryness and help with dermatitis, eczema or psoriasis.”

“It's definitely one for the winter,” says Boyce. “It's an amazing feeling to come in from the cold and get heat applied to the skin. Blood flow starts to slow down in winter too, so we need to activate those cells with heat.

“A heat facial is also a very different kind of experience for the client – they're not just coming into the salon to have creams rubbed on their skin. It is very much a results-driven treatment, which will, without fail, keep them coming back.”

‘This is a fantastic facial for the winter months as a lot of clients suffer more with skin disorders and conditions during this season’