ASK THE EXPERTS

Our beauty experts answer your questions about every aspect of running a salon or spa business

1 How do I perfect my dermaplaning technique?

Dermaplaning is a physical form of exfoliation that is designed to remove the thickening layer of the epidermis. It removes dead skin, without causing any trauma to it, revealing a fresh layer of skin that is brighter and smoother, and ready to absorb skincare ingredients to maximise the facial treatment. It’s also great for clients looking to target issues such as ageing, pigmentation and scarring.

Here are some of my top tips for perfecting your dermaplaning technique:

• Practise – this is the only way that you will improve and start to build confidence.

• Make sure the skin is cleaned and prepped.

• Use a professional skincare balm to reduce irritation and create a barrier on the skin, making the dead skin easier to remove.

• Make sure you are at the right angle and move around so you are always working towards yourself.

• Stretch the skin and pull it tight because this will reduce the likelihood of creating any nicks.

• Work methodically in small sections.

• Avoid any raised areas on the skin, including breakouts and moles. You are also advised to avoid any terminal hairs. Once you have completed your dermaplaning treatment, the skin is more vulnerable so always finish with an SPF. Guidance and aftercare is very important for your client, so tell them to:

• Keep the skin protected outdoors with an SPF and don’t expose it to the sun for at least seven days.

• Avoid touching the skin and keep it clean.

• Keep skin moisturised and be aware that it may feel a little dry in the coming days.

• Stay away from heat treatments, saunas and steam rooms for at least 48 hours.

• Avoid exfoliation or peels for at least seven days.

Kate Lowrey is a brand trainer for Million Dollar Facial with 19 years of experience in the beauty industry.

2 How can I effectively diagnose and treat my clients’ pigmentation?

Pigmentation is a common and challenging skin concern. Constitutive skin colour is the genetically inherited melanin composition, without any influence from other factors. It is determined by the quantity and type of melanin (eumelanin vs phaeomelanin), and the size and distribution of melanosomes.

Genetics play a pivotal role in establishing the ratio of eumelanin to phaeomelanin, influencing the intensity of melanogenesis (melanin production) and the specific properties of the synthesised melanin. Importantly, the richness of melanin in different skin types can significantly influence their responsiveness to various treatments.

Three other factors also play a significant role in influencing or contributing to changes in skin tone. These are hormonal changes, exposure to ultraviolet radiation and inflammation. These factors can give rise to different forms of hyperpigmentation,such as melasma, sunspots and postinflammatory pigmentation.

Prior to treatment for pigmentation, it is crucial to identify the underlying cause. Addressing the trigger is essential, as the effectiveness of the treatment is often compromised if the causative factor persists. For instance, heightened stress levels lead to increased cortisol production within the body. This hormone is directly associated with melanin production and can activate melanocyte cells, prompting pigment creation. When treating hyperpigmentation, it's important to use ingredients that inter fere with the ‘recipe’ required to create the melanin, but also in the distribution of those melanosomes. Key ingredients such as azelaic acid act as effective tyrosinase enzyme inhibitors. Tranexamic acid and retinol also inhibit specific enzymes, disrupting melanin production for a more even complexion. Glycolic and lactic acid serve as peeling agents to target pigmentation and promote skin tone balance.

Angela Taylor is the education director for the UK and Ireland at Dermalogica and has over 20 years’ industry experience.