SMOOTH SOLUTIONS

Thanks to advancements in the sector, there are more options than ever available to clients looking for smoother, straighter hair

When it comes to smoothing and straightening treatments, clients now have a lot more choice. “Treatments have evolved significantly over the last 20 years or so,” says Ryan Ward, owner of Son of a Bleach in Limerick.

“Initially, chemical straightening and relaxing treatments were prevalent in the sector – these were effective, but extremely damaging, as they broke the disulfide bonds, which are the strongest bonds in the hair. Later, Brazilian straightening or Brazilian blowouts emerged as less damaging alternatives, although early versions of these contained high levels of formaldehyde.”

Due to safety concerns, formaldehyde or formaldehyde-releasing compounds are banned or restricted in some countries. The European Union has set the ‘safe’ level of formaldehyde in straightening products at 0.2%, and Ireland is among the countries that has banned products containing more formaldehyde than this.

“Keratin treatments then became popular,”continues Ward. “These involve coating the hair with a layer of keratin.” While keratin treatments are less damaging than traditional relaxers, the straightening effect is due to a combination of keratin, heat and chemicals – the keratin alone doesn’t straighten or smooth the hair.

“These days, even more natural products have been developed, offering effective straightening and smoothing options for the most demanding hair types,” says Ward. “We use Rejuvenum’s Amino-15, which contains nourishing and natural ingredients, such as amino acids, vitamins and plant oils. It can last between six and 10 months, and the hair can be washed and styled immediately after the treatment.”

“These types of treatments have definitely evolved in recent years,” agrees Yvette Canning Heavey, owner of Salon One Hairdressing in Leixlip, Co Kildare. “When they first hit the market, they were known to strip or discolour the hair due to the harsh ingredients. However, this is no longer the case as the ingredients used now are less damaging and more reparative – they even contain thermal, colour and UV protection. There are more brands available, with six-week to five-month services on offer.

“In Salon One, we use the five-month Keratin Nanocure treatment, which has a rebuilding and revitalising formula to restore and seal the bonds, strengthening the hair fibre. We also offer the brand’s six-week Spraight option, which contains keratin and collagen to reduce frizz and make hair more manageable. It contains seven different herbal extracts, which are beneficial for both the hair and the scalp.”

Aisling Sheedy is the owner of newly opened Saor Studio in Nenagh, Co Tipperary, which offers nanoplasty, another type of straightening treatment, which is formulated with amino acids and collagen. Having worked in BKT, a straightening salon in Sydney, Australia, Sheedy is now offering the BKT Nano Pro system.

“It is suitable for a range of hair types, and it has a pleasant smell in comparison to keratin treatments. It lasts between three and eight months, depending on the hair type and condition. It’s important to note that the treatment has an accumulative effect, meaning the more times it is done, the more permanent it becomes. The aim is that after a few treatments, only the part of the hair that is newly grown will need to be redone.”

Wide appeal

As these treatments have benefitted from advancements in the sector, they are growing in popularity.

“Many clients dream of having smooth and nourished hair that’s easier to style,” says Ward. “Our best advertisement right now is word of mouth; not only do clients who have had the treatment return for more, but they also recommend us to their friends and family. We have clients who travel distances to our salon to get this treatment done.”

“Our most popular offering is the six-week Spraight service,” says Canning Heavey. “It is quick, so it’s convenient for clients with busy lifestyles. In addition, it doesn’t take up too much of the stylist’s time. It can be done after a colour or foil service, so I find a lot of my clients just add it on to their colour appointment when they are booking online. Many clients might be unsure about getting the five-month treatment as it’s more costly and time-consuming, so they have the six-week treatment to to test it out first. However, if doing this, ensure your clients are aware that they are two separate services and the results will be different as the five-month treatment is more intense.

“Overall, our smoothing treatments are popular across all demographics and suitable for most hair types, so if you advertise them properly, they will sell themselves. They are in demand all year round, but more so during holiday season.”

“As well as being suitable for most hair types, BKT’s vegan, organic formula means it is suitable as well for women who are pregnant or breastfeeding,” says Sheedy. “It can also be done on clients who have extensions, if the extensions are made from real hair. It is popular with both female and male clients.”

As with other professional treatments, training is essential if you want to offer smoothing services in your salon. “Our entire team has done the Keratin Nanocure training, and I personally never sell or recommend anything that I haven’t tried out first to see the results for myself,” says Canning Heavey. “Suppliers should always provide training or some form of education, so my advice is to shop around and ask questions. You need to find the right brand that suits you and your clientele – both from an education and cost perspective.”

‘These days, even more natural products have been developed, offering effective straightening and smoothing options for the most demanding hair types’

“No matter what new service or brand you introduce to your salon, training is necessary,” stresses Ward. “Every brand works differently and has different application requirements. Education is the key to success, and to get the maximum benefit from a product, you need proper training that is accredited. Training is crucial for insurance purposes. Many insurance companies will not cover treatments if the stylists are not trained and certified in the specific product.”

Profit margins

Being a cost-effective service to offer, hair smoothing treatments are also good for your salon’s bottom line. “For the six-week option, we charge between €25 to €35 when it’s an add-on service,” says Canning Heavey. “You don’t use much product for this and it doesn’t take up much time, so it doesn’t even need to be pre-booked by the client. The five-month treatment is more intense and you need to use more product, so we charge between €190 and €210 for this service. Alternatively, we charge between €240 and €260 and include two homecare products, which works out very well. As this service is more time-consuming, it’s a good idea to make it available to book online only on certain days so you can fill your column during quieter periods.”

“The homecare products present a great retail opportunity for our business,” says Ward. “We can only guarantee long-lasting results if our clients use the recommended aftercare products, so these are flying off the shelves because our clients purchase them with every service and often come back for more before their next treatment is due. This not only ensures the effectiveness and longevity of the treatment, but also provides a consistent retail revenue stream for the salon. Recommending homecare is great for business as it ensures client satisfaction and loyalty. Additionally, it reinforces the professional relationship between the stylist and the client, as they trust our advice and expertise in maintaining their hair’s health and appearance.”