ASK THE EXPERTS

Our beauty experts answer your questions about every aspect of running a salon or spa business

1 Can I use active skincare ingredients on clients with sensitive skin?

When skin gets irritated, it triggers an inflammatory response, which is not only uncomfortable, but can also speed up skin ageing and increase the risk of pigmentation. For sensitive skin types, this is even more of a concern because prolonged inflammation can disrupt the skin barrier, making skin even more dry and inflamed.

With the right products and a bit of know-how, you can still help your clients enjoy the benefits of powerful skincare ingredients, without compromising their skin health.

Choosing the right actives for sensitive skin

There are plenty of active ingredients that work wonders on the skin without causing irritation. It’s all about choosing the right ones.

• Retinal: retinoids have a reputation for being harsh, but retinal (a gentler form of vitamin A) offers all the anti-ageing benefits. It boosts collagen, reduces fine lines and improves skin texture, without the same risk of irritation as traditional retinol.

• Niacinamide: known for its soothing properties, niacinamide strengthens the skin barrier, reduces redness, combats pigmentation and improves the appearance of pores. It’s perfect for calming skin while delivering results.

• 4-N-Butylresorcinol: this works as a powerful inhibitor of the enzyme tyrosinase, essential for the formation of pigment. It has been shown to be the most potent inhibitor of tyrosinase – more powerful than hydroquinone. It is an effective brightening agent that helps reduce hyperpigmentation and melasma. It’s strong on dark spots, but gentle on skin.

• Polyhydroxy acids (PHAs): PHAs have larger molecules than AHAs or BHAs. They provide mild exfoliation with proven benefits for ageing and pigmentation. They also hydrate skin and strengthen the skin barrier. They don’t increase sensitivity to UV, and they are tolerated by even sensitive skin types.

2 What are some of the current lip blushing trends?

As the demand for semi-permanent make-up (SPMU) continues to rise, lip blush has emerged as a go-to treatment for many clients. Three standout lip blush techniques are currently influencing what clients are requesting. These methods are elevating aesthetic results, and setting standards for how to approach lip pigmentation with new knowledge and skills.

Ombré lip blush

This advanced technique involves a gradient effect, where the pigmentation fades smoothly from darker edges into a lighter centre. This can be achieved by diluting the pigment or mixing with another pigment, depending on the blend and the effect needed, creating a fuller, softly defined lip.

Sheer lip blush

This is the go-to technique for clients seeking the most natural, barely-there enhancement. This method uses diluted pigments to create a translucent wash of colour, similar to the effect of a tinted lip balm. The key to mastering sheer lip blush lies in your ability to balance pigment saturation with skin tone, ensuring the result is subtle and fresh. As clients move towards a more minimalist approach to beauty, this trend is set to explode this year.

Contour lip blush

This is similar to ombré lips, except there is more of a focus on strong outer borders, rather than a seamless blend. This gives lips a more defined and sculpted appearance, without the harsh lines of traditional lip liner. By carefully shading and adding dimension to the lips, contour lip blush creates the illusion of depth and volume. This technique allows for ultra-precise enhancements tailored to each client’s natural lip shape,