Spotlight on... miniproteins

With miniproteins being among the latest innovations to capture the beauty industry’s attention, Kezia Parkins explores these minute and mighty proteins, which hold promise for addressing some of our most pressing skincare concerns

‘The unique 3D folding structure of miniproteins enables them to lock perfectly into skin cell receptors, maximising their effectiveness to visibly smooth and firm the skin’

WHAT ARE THEY?

Before the beauty industry caught on to their power, miniproteins became big in biotechnology and drug development, in particular for cancer research, for their ability to block disease proteins and deliver toxic payloads to tumours.

Now, Swiss biotech Activen has created and trademarked miniproteins as a new class of growth factor active ingredient for skincare. And skincare brands such as Medik8 and Trinny London have been adding them to their formulations.

“Described by Activen and some skincare brand leaders as the ‘next generation of active ingredients’ in dermo cosmetics, miniproteins are proteins that are small enough to penetrate the skin, and offer high and specific efficacy on a given target,” explains Cigdem Kemal Yilmaz, cosmetic chemist and founder of Skin Masterclass.

“Miniproteins combine the deep penetration of peptides, with the enhanced potency of proteins,” says Dan Isaacs, director of research at Medik8.

“Their micro-size ensures active ingredients reach deep into the skin, targeting the cells that need them most for faster, more effective results.

Meanwhile, the unique 3D folding structure of miniproteins enables them to lock perfectly into skin cell receptors, maximising their effectiveness to visibly smooth and firm the skin.”

WHERE DO THEY COME FROM?

Unlike traditional proteins, which can be a bulkier biomaterial, miniproteins are designed to be compact and highly targeted, being 12 times smaller than the growth factor TGF-Beta commonly used in skincare. This makes them uniquely suited for use in skincare formulations, where precision and penetration are paramount.

“They are naturally-occurring proteins that have been identified by studying the genetic code of different organisms found in nature,” explains Isaacs.

“Miniproteins can be found in several natural sources such as plants, animals and marine organisms, and can be bioengineered or synthesised in a lab,” adds Yilmaz.

This synthesised process allows for a sustainable and controlled supply of the ingredient, ensuring its safety and purity, notes Isaacs.

‘Miniproteins can be found in several natural sources such as plants, animals and marine organisms, and can be bioengineered or synthesised in a lab’

HOW DO THEY WORK IN SKINCARE?

Thanks to their compact size and ability to bind to specific receptors, these tiny powerhouses can penetrate the skin to effectively address skin concerns, including fine lines and wrinkles, as well as deep set expression lines.

“They primarily work on the skin’s surface by interacting with receptors or molecules in the epidermis,” explains Yilmaz. “This can then trigger signalling pathways that stimulate deeper processes, such as collagen production or repair, without requiring direct penetration.

“Unlike full-length proteins, which are typically too large to cross the stratum corneum, miniproteins are designed to balance size and stability, enabling partial penetration while retaining bioactivity.

“They work at a molecular level to rebuild, protect and enhance the skin's structural components, resulting in noticeable improvements in texture, firmness, elasticity and hydration over time. Their ability to imitate natural processes, while being more stable and targeted than peptides, makes them a valuable addition to advanced skincare formulations.”

“They work like a growth factor to strengthen skin structure over time by helping to boost natural collagen, elastin and hyaluronic acid essential components for visibly plumper, firmer and smoother looking skin,” says Isaacs.